Being in Buenos Aires is like stepping into a European city reminiscent of Paris! It is vibrant and modern, with a heavy European influence. Many of the population is of Italian descent, reflected in the delicious Italian cuisine. It had been 35 years since my last visit to this beautiful city. When I learned I would fly here to start my Antarctic Expedition (story to come), I was eager to explore it again!
One of my favorite ways to get a feel of the city is to take a city bus tour. The Buenos Aires route took about 3.5 hours to complete. I determined all the places I wanted to explore by bus and on foot, noting the distance between them and my hotel. I made the city's first public cemetery, established in 1822, my first stop.
Famous, infamous, influential, and regular folk are all interred in the Recoleta Cemetery, including crypts for Eva Peron and other members of the Duarte family.
I loved the beautiful Art Noveau and Art Deco crypts and Mausoleums throughout. I was fascinated by a gorgeous, over-the-top mausoleum standing beside a weathered stucco crypt with a barely hinged, rusted gate in disrepair. Even at the cemetery, you experience the stark differences between the haves and have-nots. After a couple of hours of exploration in this fascinating place, I walked through the Recoleta neighborhood – one of the city's most elegant communities.
Other places I visited during my four days in Buenos Aires included:
La Casa Rosada – This iconic "pink house" is where Evita Peron addressed her adoring crowds, and the current Argentinian president spends his workday.
El Obelisco – This national historic monument was built in 1936 to commemorate the city's 400 years. It was constructed on the same spot where Argentina's flag was raised for the first time in 1812.
Plaza de Mayo – This political hub of Buenos Aires has witnessed many demonstrations and rebellions over hundreds of years, and it holds significant meaning to Argentinians.
Museo de Arte Latinoamericano de Buenos Aires (MALBA) – In this beautiful museum, you will enjoy master artwork by Frida Kahlo, Diego Rivera, Fernando Botero, and other Latin American artists.
El Mercado Santelmo – This vast marketplace was full of fresh produce, meat and flower stands, and incredible eateries. I devoured a warm, savory, traditional Argentinian empanada from the food stand El Honero that was filled with hot beef, onions, peppers, olives and potatoes. It was A-M-A-Z-I-N-G! A stop at El Mercado Santelmo is a must!
El Caminito – Located in the La Boca neighborhood, El Caminito is known for its murals, colorful buildings, street food, an open-air Mercado, stores, café, and many photo opportunities. Families gather to enjoy a stroll and good food in this tourist area. Word of caution: stay in the main areas where the crowds are. This neighborhood is unsafe to wander through, especially for a woman traveling solo.
La Bombonera – Located in La Boca and a few blocks from El Caminito, is where all the football (soccer) games are held. Argentinians are passionate football fans, and they worship Maradona and Messi!
El Puente de La Mujer – This distinctive-looking bridge is located in Puerto Madero. It was constructed in 2001 and designed by famed Spanish architect Santiago Calatrava. The bridge was named the "Woman's Bridge" partly because the streets around this area are named after women and because the bridge symbolizes a man and a woman dancing the tango.
Puerto Madero – On the Rio De La Plata banks, you'll find a Hilton Hotel, many chain restaurants, other unique eateries, and high-end shops. This is a luxurious part of town featuring high-rises and an ecological reserve. It's a new and modern area. I didn't care for it, preferring BA's historic and well-established neighborhoods.
Museo Nacional Ferroviario – This captivating museum is dedicated to Argentina's railway system. Although it is most impressive in person, you can virtually tour the entire museum from their website!
Tango at Café de Los Angelitos – You'll enjoy great tango shows and delicious dinner at this historic coffee house!
The highlight of my wanderings was the Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes. Not only was it free, but this fabulous museum also has one of the most varied collections I've seen, featuring works by Manet, Monet, Toulouse-Lautrec, Cezanne, Van Gogh, El Greco, Goya, Rembrandt, Chagall, Modigliani, Picasso and Pollack, to name a few. There are also pre-Columbian and 16 and 17-century works and contemporary works by various Latin American artists.
I am a huge admirer of August Rodin's art. I was thrilled to find a collection of 34 sculptures and drawings, including duplicates of The Kiss and The Thinker, sculpted by Rodin himself. I learned that Rodin had a long history of commissioned work and developed friendships among artists and patrons in Buenos Aires, dating back to 1900. The first significant exhibition of his works at the museum occurred in 1934. By 1975, through additional acquisitions from private collections, the Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes housed the most extensive collection of Rodin works in Latin America. This is an extraordinary collection well worth taking your time to explore.
During the few days I was in Buenos Aires, I savored a delicious Bife de Chorizo (sirloin) and two fabulous Italian meals, visited two microbreweries, enjoyed al-fresco breakfasts sipping Café con leche, and enjoyed two of Argentina's staples: empanadas and Alfajores (a traditional Argentine cookie filled with Dulce de leche). Through it all, the Malbec flowed freely!
Even though I was there for four days, it wasn't enough time to do all there was to do! I'll never forget this trip and look forward to my next visit.
To my fellow solo women travelers, I encourage you to EXPERIENCE, EXPLORE, and ENJOY your own adventure in this beautiful city!
Until we meet again, adios, Buenos Aires.
If you've been to Buenos Aries, I'd love to hear about your adventure and your recommendations on what to do, see, and eat!
I’m jealous of all your adventures!